Greece was great, but Athens surprised me, and not always in a good way.
Before visiting, I expected something similar to Rome, ancient ruins, good food, a bit of chaos, and a couple of days of sightseeing before heading to the islands. In many ways, that’s exactly what Athens is… but it also felt rougher, louder and far less polished than I imagined.
Big cities, especially in Europe, have fantastic charm and history but they’re also quite similar.
The surprising factor for Athens was that it felt more raw and chaotic than I had imagined in certain areas. It’s a city with incredible history, amazing food… really amazing food, and some genuinely beautiful viewpoints, but also visible social problems that many travel blogs don’t really talk about.
After spending time in both Athens and Hydra Island, I think most people only need around 3 days in Athens itself before exploring elsewhere in Greece.
That said, those 3 days can be packed with a lot more than just visiting the Parthenon.
If you have more time, I’d strongly recommend adding one of the nearby islands to your trip. In fact, I wouldn't go to Athens without visiting one of the islands, so your trip should be around a week's stay in total. Hydra Island was one of the highlights for me and was only around an hour away by fast ferry.
March also turned out to be a great time to visit. Temperatures were around 20–24°C (68-75°F) during the day, crowds were manageable, and walking around the city was far more comfortable than it would be in peak summer heat.
My Honest Thoughts on Athens
Athens feels layered.
One minute you’re walking through ancient ruins that are thousands of years old, and the next you’re sitting outside drinking wine in a modern rooftop restaurant overlooking the city.
The food was honestly one of the best parts of the trip. Almost everywhere I ate was good, from smaller local spots to restaurants with views overlooking the Acropolis. The wine was also surprisingly good and far cheaper than I expected in many places.
But Athens also felt rough around the edges in certain areas.
Coming from London, I was genuinely surprised by how openly visible some of the drug use and homelessness issues were in parts of the city. A few times I saw people using (hard) drugs in alleyways or darker corners quite openly. It didn’t ruin the trip at all, but it’s something worth knowing beforehand because most travel guides paint Athens as either completely romantic or completely unsafe, when in reality it’s somewhere in the middle.
Like most major cities, some areas feel far nicer than others.
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Where I Stayed in Athens
The best area I stayed in was within walking distance of the Acropolis Museum. The area is called Plaka.
For me, this was the ideal balance because:
most major attractions were walkable
there were loads of restaurants nearby
transport was easy
it felt busy but still comfortable
The small backgrounds had an amazing charm and were lovely to walk around
There are plenty of apartments available alongside hotels, and outside peak season there were some really reasonable prices.
If you visit during summer, expect:
significantly more tourists
much hotter temperatures
longer queues at attractions
busier rooftop restaurants and viewpoints
Personally, I think March to May and September to November are probably the best times to visit Athens.
You still get warm weather without the extreme heat and overwhelming crowds.
The Acropolis & Museum, Worth It?
The Parthenon is obviously something you have to see while in Athens.
Even if you’re not massively into history, standing above the city surrounded by ruins that old is still impressive. The views alone make it worth it.
What surprised me more was the entrance cost. I believe adult entry was around €30 each, which definitely felt expensive compared to other attractions I’ve visited around Europe.
The Acropolis Museum was really nice, modern and well presented, but if I’m honest, I expected it to be bigger. This was also around €20 for an adult ticket. Again, coming from London, where the museums are free, and if we’re talking about the National History Museum or British Museum, there's a lot more to see there, so granted, this felt a little much.
That doesn’t mean it isn’t worth visiting, it absolutely is, but I think some people expect a huge full-day experience when, in reality, you can comfortably see most of it fairly quickly.
Getting Around Athens
Getting around Athens was easier than I expected.
Uber and taxis were very similar in price most of the time, although Uber occasionally came out slightly cheaper.
One thing I’d definitely recommend is using Lime scooters.
There are loads around the city, they’re easy to use, and honestly, they made exploring Athens far more fun than constantly relying on taxis or walking everywhere in the heat.
For shorter journeys, they’re ideal.
The Best Views in Athens
Athens has some seriously good viewpoints.
Lycabettus Hill
Lycabettus Hill was probably my favourite overall viewpoint in Athens.
The hike itself is easy and doesn’t take too long, but the panoramic views over the entire city are incredible, especially near sunset.
There’s also a restaurant at the top, although when I went it was extremely busy. If you’re planning to eat there, I’d recommend booking ahead during peak periods.
One thing to expect here is crowds. Sunset is beautiful, but everyone else knows that too.
Filopappou Hill
Another area I really enjoyed was Filopappou Hill near the so-called Prison of Socrates. I’ve always been drawn to Ancient Greek philosophy, so standing in a place historically linked to someone like Socrates genuinely felt surreal. Whether or not it was truly his prison, peering into the cave-like structure overlooking Athens really puts things into perspective.
“The unexamined life is not worth living.” - Socrates
This area felt slightly calmer and more relaxed than some of the more famous tourist spots. The walk itself is easy, and from certain points, you get amazing direct views of the Parthenon sitting above the city.
The park surrounding the hill is also genuinely nice to walk through, especially in the late afternoon.
If you enjoy walking, Athens becomes a much better city once you start exploring some of these elevated areas instead of only staying around the main tourist streets.
Hydra Island Was One of the Best Parts of the Trip
If you only stay in Athens the entire time, I honestly think you'll miss one of the best parts of Greece.
Hydra Island was probably the highlight of the trip for me.
It’s roughly an hour away from Athens by fast ferry, and one of the most unique things about the island is that there are no cars.
Instead, people get around by walking, boats, or donkeys.
At first, it sounds almost gimmicky, but once you arrive, the entire island feels slower and calmer in a really good way. On the main harbour, there’s still a sense of hustle and bustle but in a much gentler way.
I think 2–3 days in Hydra is enough for most people.
The island itself is very walkable, with cobbled pathways connecting key areas and viewpoints. One of the best things I did there was a hike that passed a monastery to the summit of the island and overlooked parts of the coastline.
I’d classify the hike as moderate difficulty if you pace yourself properly.
If you visit in warmer months, it should go without saying:
Bring plenty of water
Avoid hiking during peak midday heat
Wear proper shoes
A lot of the swimming spots around Hydra are rocky rather than sandy, so beach shoes are definitely worth bringing unless you enjoy testing your pain tolerance on hot pebbles. Or in my case warmish pebbles which didn't hurt my feet any less!
The shops around the island are nice too, although some are definitely expensive due to the tourist traffic.
One Important Thing to Know About Ferries
This caught me out personally.
If the weather is bad, ferries may not run at all. I’m no sailor, but I spent time in Croatia a few years back and thought I understood how ferry travel worked, but I still didn’t expect services to completely stop running.
In hindsight, it makes sense, rough seas, poor visibility, and a boat full of tourists trying not to redecorate the deck with yesterday’s seafood pasta probably isn’t ideal for anyone involved.
That’s exactly what happened to me, and I ended up staying an extra day in Athens unexpectedly.
It wasn’t the end of the world, but it’s something worth considering when planning flights or tight schedules. I’d avoid booking your ferry back on the exact same day as an international flight if possible.
Greek weather can change ferry schedules surprisingly quickly.
Who Athens Might Not Be For
Athens probably isn’t the best choice if:
you want a polished luxury-city feel everywhere - see Dubai
The city feels far more authentic and energetic than pristine.
That’s part of why I enjoyed it, but I can also see why some travellers prefer quieter Greek islands instead.
Final Thoughts: Is Athens Worth Visiting?
Yes, definitely.
But I think Athens works best when you understand what it actually is.
It’s not a perfect postcard city. It’s busy, chaotic in places, historical, gritty, energetic and full of character all at once.
The food was incredible, the wine was great, the viewpoints were genuinely memorable, and Hydra Island added the slower pace that balanced the trip perfectly.
For most people, I’d recommend:
3 days in Athens
2–3 days in Hydra or another island
visiting outside peak summer if possible, unless you‘re chasing that heat
That combination gives you history, food, hiking, island life and enough flexibility to enjoy Greece properly without feeling rushed.
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